Fashion Tips and Style Advice from America's "Best Dressed Real Man"
Thursday May 17th 2012

Tip-of-the-Day: 7 1/2 Ways to Wear a Tie with Attitude

More and more guys are wearing neckties not because they have to, but because they want to. It’s a style choice, and a good one (depending on how you wear it).

I can’t think of an accessory that can completely change a look more than a tie. The trick is separating a look that says “I have a meeting with my boss” from a look that is more “I just want to wear a damn tie”.

Here are a few quick and easy ways to separate the two. How to pull-off a tie with a little attitude.

1. Unbuttoned & Unbuttoned

Loosen the knot, open the top of the placket and unfasten the collar buttons. Just a touch of nonchalant imperfection.

Bonus tip: don’t have the right pocket square to go with your outfit? How about a bow tie…

Bonus tip II: rustic gunmetal buttons are a more contemporary and less predictable choice for a classic blue blazer, rather than the traditional gold or brass emblem/crest buttons.

Blue birdseye blazer, tan corduroy trousers (part of suit) and grey herringbone tie all by Michael Andrews Bespoke (custom made, my own designs). Blue oxford shirt by Thom Browne (size 3). Wool plaid bow tie (worn as pocket square) Vintage. Watch and band by Montblanc.

2. Backside Longer

Another hint of “I threw this on” (even though we know you didn’t) nonchalance is inverting the length of the frontside and backside.

Keep in mind that this one can easily be considered a mistake, so it’s important to understand your level of personal style (as well as others’ perception of your style). If you have a reputation as a “good dresser” and the confidence to take a little risk, then go for it. If you’re still figuring it out, maybe save it for a later date.

Pink double-stripe shirt and tan corduroy trousers by Michael Andrews Bespoke (custom made, my own designs). Silk knit tie by Galleni. Navy cardigan by Uniqlo (size M). Watch by Montblanc. Tortoise shades by Persol. Alligator belt by Ralph Lauren Purple Label.

3. Tucked

This is certainly more “edgy” than “business”. It’s a hint at a tie, with an obvious non-conformant sensibility.

Similar to what I said above, it’s important to know what works within your personal style.

Vintage sleeveless denim jacket by Levis (size 38). Green stripe oxford shirt by Gitman Brothers (size M). Vintage club tie from my late grandfather. Shades courtesy of Randolph Engineering.

4. Twisted

This is one of my favorites because it is so subtle. I call it the Italian Twist. When we were staying in Florence last summer, I noticed a number of very chic men wearing the thinner side of their ties parallel to the longer side – even with a full business suit look.

This works best with a wider/thicker tie and a fuller knot than it does with those skinny hipster things.

Brown stripe shirt and rep stripe tie by Michael Andrews Bespoke (custom made, my own designs). Cotton topcoat by Theory (sample, size 40). Gloves (in breast pocket) by Hilts & Willard (size S). Belt by Ralph Lauren Purple Label.

5, 6 & 7. Same Cloth, Tucked In & Open Cuff

5. With a couple of my latest suits, I’ve been designing ties in the exact same fabric.  The simplicity and uniformity of this look is very chic.

6. Tucking in the tie can be tricky. This works best on slim guys who’s outfits fit really well.  Here is another example of this done very chicly.

7. Leaving the sleeve cuffs open give a more casual, not-so-serious vibe.

Grey donegal jacket (part of suit), matching tie, subtle grey stripe shirt, navy corduroy trousers all by Michael Andrews Bespoke (custom made, my own designs). Loafers by Bally. Wool socks by Land’s End. Watch by Monblanc. Black shades by Persol. Scarf by Kenneth Cole. Pocket square stolen restaurant napkin.

7.5 The only time it’s safe to wear a bowtie untied…

…is when it comes to fruition organically. After a long night of celebrating, it’s okay to loosen up the collar and unfasten the bowtie. Otherwise, if you’re wearing a loose bowtie as an accessory, it can cross that thin line between “nonchalant” and “affected”.

Midnight blue shawl tuxedo, hidden-fron tux shirt, and black grosgrain bowtie (cut from the same cloth as the jacket collar) all by Michael Andrews Bespoke (custom made, my own designs). Watch by Montblanc. Whiskey by Hudson New York.

Thanks for reading.

Yours in style,

Sb

Leave a Comment

65 Comments

  • Bryan says:

    really enjoying your blog! learning a lot from this. thank you

  • Abe says:

    Bow tie as a pocket square? GENIUS!adding this to my wardrobe.

  • stanley lewis says:

    Great, great post! It’s something I have never thought about, really, but it makes a whole lot of sense.

  • Badger says:

    I’ve been wearing bow ties as pocket squares for ages. Nice to see it “legitimized”!

  • Custom Ties says:

    There are so many ways to wear ties, and the way that they are worn is important. Everyone makes an assumption toward your appearance subconsciously, and how your tie is worn is a major part of this judgment.

    most ties can easily get to costing $80, but they do not always have to be, especially when they are high quality.
    http://www.zazzle.com/TieExpressions*

  • Versus says:

    Why recommend such styles? All of them seem affected (except the untied bowtow, but only at the end of night as you specify), in the manner of childish rebellion. The effect is to appear is if one is either drunk, or simply got dressed without a mirror.

  • vali says:

    wow, the second look is amazing!!! I’m dreaming now at the rl belt, but it’s so freakin’ expensive! I’ll better start saving…

  • JG says:

    The 1st and 8th photograph are quite sharp. The style suits you very well. I do, however, protest that a denim vest is a bit of a stretch. Perhaps the classic style in me is speaking; I just cannot understand the purpose of a denim jacket and denim vest.

    Nevertheless, great posts as usual.

    Peace,

    -J

    p.s. Take your watch off when you wear a tuxedo. A gentleman could care less about what time it is at events that require tuxedos.

  • Robert from DC says:

    An extra 1/2 to make a full 8. I have this weird fascination when wearing a sweater, vest or waistcoat to have the backside hang down PAST the bottom of them. I start by having the backside near my waist then I do a 4-in-hand with an extra loop. This creates a bolder knot (nothing crazy) and leaves the backside longer than the front (who cares since it’s covered). It creates a unique perspective as long as the tie doesn’t hang more than an 2 inches past your belt. It’s that little Sprezzatura that adds to the look(especially when the tie is BOLD).

    Keep up the good work,

    -Ciao

  • Paul says:

    That last Tuxedo shot — class!

  • cravate says:

    J’ai eu besoin d’une cravate étroite. Ici, sur Cravate.org, j’ai trouvé quelques cravates étroites. Les articles étaient super et le prix était simplement génial. Cette boutique est absolument recommandable.

  • corbata says:

    Necesitaba una corbata delgada. Aquí en Corbatas.es he encontrado algunas corbatas delgados. Los productos fueron excelentes, y el precio es simplemente genial. Solo puedo recomendarlos.

  • Anonymous says:

    Ich bin regelmäßiger Krawattenträger und trage auch ab und zu gern eine Krawatte weiss. Zu einem weißen Hemd sehen die sehr gut aus, wie ich finde.

  • Liam says:

    I really like your look in the “backside longer.” I’m a big fan of ties right now, and I found a pretty cool site that has videos on 15 different ways to tie a tie: http://www.abcneckties.com/how-to-tie-a-tie/
    I knew a couple of the ways, but some of the more obscure ones are a good way to make your tie look a bit different.

    • P says:

      Pfffttt. 15 ways to tie a tie?! You need a copy of The 85 Ways to Tie a Tie!

      http://www.tcm.phy.cam.ac.uk/~tmf20/85ways.shtml

      It’s a neat book on ties that includes a history of men’s neckwear as well as lots of knots.

      Also, I went with look number 1 for a party at my apartment last Saturday and found myself violently head-locked until I agreed to button the buttons. Wear with caution.

  • Arlequin says:

    I’m an avid reader of your site but I have to say that look 5,6 and 7 is on point!!
    Using the same fabric for the tie and and the suit jacket is something that I’ve never seen before, and you really topped it off with the black Persols.
    Your shade collection is pretty dope, I recently bought the tortoise Steve Mc Queen with blue lens, and they’re my favorites among all my shades.
    Thank you for being so inspirational, I think you’re outlook on Men’s style is very interesting.
    Keep up the flyness Dan!

  • TO says:

    Nice timing on the century 21 tip… I wasn’t sure if it was going to be worth it but I might have to stop in this weekend :)

  • Chris says:

    Hey Dan,

    Have you thought about doing a video post on your shaving/morning routine? What beard trimmer do you use to keep your stubble? I’m in the market for a new one.

    Thanks.

  • Sal says:

    I do the tie tuck when i’m wearing a sweater over my shirt; i find it holds nicely in place and i don’t have to worry about the tie showing through the sweater material.

  • Julian says:

    Eaventhough I’m not really a fan of wearing ties loose, twisted or tucked I got to admit that the styles really fit you.What i do like is the navy blazer with the gunmetal buttons. Idon’t like golden buttons so I’ll definetly copy this look…
    I also got to admit that I’m thinking of stealing your tie collection. All of the ties featured on the blog are beautiful. I’m always looking for ties to add to my collection but it’s hard to find pieces with the right width.
    I guess european men like wider ties…

    As always Thanks for the inspiration!

    Julian

    • SB says:

      Thanks Julian. For the record, (currently) I think the perfect tie width (for a guy who is tall-ish and slim-ish) is 2 3/4″ (2.75″).

      Best,
      Dan

  • Joey Dee says:

    Loving number 7. Well, they are all great looks, but am afraid of number 3. No problem with tucking the tie in, but the sleeveless denim jacket, its something that you can do much better than i. All good looks.

    • SB says:

      The sleeveless denim jacket can be a little tricky. I originally cut the sleeves off so thatit would fit more easily as a layering piece under outerwear (post on this coming soon)…but then I just started wearing it on its own. Why not?

      Thanks for reading,
      Dan

  • The Shoe Snob says:

    I like the new header to your blog. Way to include some shoe action. Those saddles are killing it!

    http://the-shoe-snob.blogspot.com/

  • Amir says:

    Excellent looks Dan. All of them. I had a question though. I noticed that in most of your looks (if not all), you are not wearing anything black (i.e. pants, shirt, jacket) but the shades in your second look are black. I have learned, in my opinion at least, that staying away from black colored garments allows you to wear more color in your outfit and your looks are proof to this. I just wanted to get some insight on your take on the versatility of black shades vs tortoise shell for a wardrobe that consists of many neutrals with the exception of black and which color can be worn more. Thanks

    • SB says:

      Hey Amir. Thanks for reading.

      The shades in the second look are actually tortoise color. I also have the same pair in black (also in look 5/6/7).

      Of those two, I wear the tortoise more often (especially in the summer). I usually only wear the black frames with muted outfits and black leathers, while I wear the tortoise frames with more colorful outfits and with basically any leathers other than black; brown, cream, cognac, oxblood, green, etc.

      Hope this helps.

      Best,
      Dan

  • bcarroll208 says:

    The two pairs of persols are as classic as it gets. My favorite model are the steve mcqueen edition lighter tortoise with the blue lens. You probably have that pair too. Thanks for the inspiration. I’m currently in college hoping to do similar work with fashion.

    elegantly,
    B

    • SB says:

      Good call. Those are up there with my favs as well. I have a post on colored lenses scheduled. Stay tuned! :)

      Thanks for reading.

      Best,
      Dan

  • manmanifesto says:

    love it! I also noticed the perfection of the tie knots – something that shows that u care about the way u present urself. Check out my blog and my post on tie knots…

    http://manmanifesto.tumblr.com/post/1720434627/the-gentlemans-blueprint-its-all-about-the-knot

  • Daniel says:

    The second last look is boss. Nicely done!

  • Dane says:

    Ok so call me a poser but i absolutely am diggin the tie in shot #2 the Silk knit tie by Galleni. How much and where online can i get that.

    If you wanted to “donate” to me thats fine too Dan. :)

    Thanks for any advice you can give.

    Dane

    • SB says:

      Haha. Thanks Dane. I think I got that tie at Century 21 in NYC…which means it was probably 50-80% off. If you’re in the city, it’s worth a look, especially for silk knit ties. But bring a big bag of patience, that place can get crazy, especially this time of year.

      All the best,
      Dan

  • cam says:

    you should only sip kentucky bourbon ;)

  • Nader says:

    Sharp Banner, any chances to see that photo with the waistcoat ?

  • Thatguy says:

    what kinda knot do you use?

    I use the 4 in hand( sometimes a double) and the kent

    • SB says:

      Tie knot depends on a number of factors (the tie’s width, heft, fabric, the spread of the collar, with of the jacket lapels, knit gage of a sweater, etc). Most often I probably use a simple 4-in-hand.

      Thanks for reading.

      Best,
      Dan

  • Brunello says:

    Hi Dan,

    Love the twisted tie look. Is this something you don on the regular?

    PS–Where’s the best spot for a dope grilled cheese in NYC?

    Peace.

    • SB says:

      Hey Brunello. I don’t think there is anything that I really “don” on the regular. I switch it up from day to day.

      The best grilled cheese I’ve had in the city (other than the gourmet ones cooked in my kitchen with fresh ingredients from the farmer’s market) is on the brunch menu at Five Points on Great Jones & Lafayette. Hands down. It will change the way you look at a grilled cheese.

      Thanks for reading.

      Best,
      Dan

      • Brunello says:

        Thanks, Dan. And, yeah, I agree with you on doing it up homemade.

        Is this the one you mean?

        Griddled Cheese Sandwich 14.

        Double Smoked Bacon, Aged Cheddar Cheese, Sliced Pears, Grain Mustard

  • John says:

    Hey,

    What kind of boots would you recommend for the winter. I’ve been trying to find some but I can’t find any nice ones– do you have any tip because all the nice ones that I find are from gucci and d&g and I don’t have that money.

  • Collin says:

    I’m a junior in highschool, been dressing up since 6th grade. People have really accepted me that way, but I still get the idiot asking “sooo, why are you dressed up today, something special?” No, I just want to wear a damn tie =] Thanks for the tips.

    • SB says:

      Haha. I’ve been there Collin. It may take some time, but if you do it right, eventually you can make the transition from people asking “why is Colling dressed like that?” to “I can’t wait to see what Collin wears tonight” :)

      And you’re starting to think about your personal style long before I did.

      All the best,
      Dan

  • Ag says:

    Also, noticed the new banner. The braided braces have me intrigued.

  • Ag says:

    Great motivation and execution of the post Dan.

    However, I have to say, I would not do the bow tie-pocket square swap when I am already wearing a neck tie. I find it a little too contrived.

    Instead, use the bow tie as a pocket square when, you are going open collar? Keeping the option open to put it on? What do you think?

    Cheers…

    • SB says:

      Good tip! Thanks!

      If you’re wearing a bowtie but forgot a pocket square: when you take off the tie, stuff it in your breast pocket! You can always put it back on later.

      Thanks for reading and for sharing.

      Best,
      Dan

      • CAS says:

        Funny, I did a similar thing a couple days ago. Was wearing a bowtie for work.. afterhours, took the tie off and stuffed it in my topcoat pocket. Its always fun to play with accessories and find new and creative ways to style your outfit.

  • Travis says:

    A leather vest = a major no no.
    A denim vest = who knew?

    Cheers,
    Travis

  • Trublue says:

    Everytime I read this blog, I am a better man.

    • SB says:

      So are you saying that, in a way, I’m making the world a better place? Hopefully my mom reads this…haha

      Thanks for reading!
      Dan

  • Jack says:

    Great post, especially like the backside longer look, never knew you could wear a tie so differently, what knot do you tend to use?

    • SB says:

      Depends on a number of factors, including the tie itself and the spread of the collar. Most often probably a simple 4-in-hand knot.

      Thx for reading.

      Best,
      Dan

  • Anonymous says:

    That Theory cotton topcoat is fucking awesome. You should do product selections, like Prepidemic does piece of the weeks and what not. You always have pieces that are spot on, yet impossible to find myself!

    • SB says:

      This saying comes to mind: “You can catch a man a fish, and feed him for a day. OR you can teach him how to fish, and feed him for a lifetime”.

      There are hundreds of blogs out there with “go buy this” type of reviews. This is not my intention with this site.

      Rather than write “I recommend buying this coat, which is in stores now”, I’d rather say “look for a coat with these features, this fabric, this fit, etc”. In my opinion this type of advice is more informative and appeals to more readers. Those interested can then find similar pieces in a range of budgets and a variety of stores, no matter where they live.

      After all, the cotton topcoat, like alot of my clothing, is a few years old and the exact style is no longer available in stores.

      I do agree, however, that “perfectly” designed pieces are very difficult to find. This, among several others, is one of the reasons I am starting to design my own line.

      My advice: if you do find a good deal on something that is exactly what you’ve been looking for, pull the trigger. And if it really is “perfect”, buy it in more than one color.

      Thanks for reading!

      Best,
      SB

  • The Shoe Snob says:

    I love ties and I just recently started getting into bow ties. Now I just want to buy a ton of them. Love the Donegal tweed tie/jacket combo, especially in gray, when it’s always sharp! Would have liked to see a couple of more casual outfits with ties though i.e. with jeans and such. Good post anyway, keep it up!

    http://the-shoe-snob.blogspot.com/

  • Pierre says:

    Sorry… To me they’re all affected, except the bow tie at the end of the wedding or fundraiser. Tie the tie once in the morning, make sure it’s neat, and let the chips (ends) fall where they may. Anything else is trying too hard.

    • SB says:

      Thanks for sharing your opinion. I’m sure there are plenty of more conservative dressers that agree. But where’s the fun in that? :)

      Thanks for reading, and for sharing.

      Best,
      Dan

  • Trublue says:

    Thanks SB. I really did not know.

  • Sabir P. says:

    The tie tuck is a new one for me. I havent seen to many people attempting to pull it off. Do you have an “attitude” style of tie wear that you prefer?

    • SB says:

      A favorite? Not really. Probably whichever I haven’t done in a while. Styling choices depend on a number of variables I think: the outfit’s other pieces, fabrics, the day’s schedule, weather, personal emotions, the message I’m trying to convey, etc.

      Cheers Sabir
      -Dan